Signal and Brake Module setup

Setup

This page describes how to connect the signal module, and how to configure it. It is divided into 4 sections:

Connecting power to the module

There are basically 4 different ways to connect power to the module. They are all described below. Choose whatever method best suits you and your existing layout.

The first method is the most simple. It simply draws power directly from the tracks. The obvious advantage is less wires to connect. The disadvantage is that the power used for the signals are drawn from the 6021, Intellibox or booster, and so has less power left for the trains. This method is mostly used for small or temporary layouts, where there is no separate transformer for lighting.
Just connect B and O (red and brown) to a nearby track. Then connect the L and O in the lower left corner with B and O, as shown.

The next method uses a separate transformer, that has common ground with the rest of the layout through the tracks. Remember to connect the two O's in the lower left. The B and O connection to the tracks are still needed to receive the digital information, but the power to drive the module is taken from the L (yellow) connection.

The third possibility is also with a separate transformer, as the previous one. But this time it does not have a common ground. It is totally isolated from the digital system. This requires even more wires around the layout.

This last power option is rather unusual, and potentially dangerous for your digital equipment. It should only be attempted if you know exactly what you are doing, and fully understands the dangers in using this method of getting power. It can be used if the transformer, that supplies the 6021, Intellibox or booster, has a power rating that exceeds the requirements of your digital equipment. Then this extra power can be used to power the signal module. Beware of the danger though: The power lines from the transformer that supplies the digital equipment, may never come in contact with the rest of the layout, not even by a accidental brief short. If connected, the 6021 (or Intellibox/booster) most probably will be destroyed. This also means that if your signals are made of metal, then a derailed train could come in contact with the signal mast and the tracks at the same time, thereby destroying the digital controller.
My best advice is: NEVER DO THIS. But if you are willing to try it anyway, then this is the way to connect it:

Connecting the module to the tracks

The signal module requires three sections of center-tap isolated track to operate properly. If you are replacing a Märklin 72441 brake module with this one, then you can use the existing track without modifications.
The first section is a transition section. Its job is to prevent shorts between normal powered tracks and the brake section. The transition section should be longer than the length of the pickup shoes, and shorter than the shortest distance between any two pickup shoes in a train (in case passenger coaches have their own pickup for interior light).
The next section is where the braking takes place. Make this as long as you would like your trains to brake.
The stop section is the last one. Its primary function is to stop trains, that didn't fully stop in the braking section. If a train enters the stop section, light, smoke and sound will cease to function until the signal turn green. Another function of the stop section is to detect trains coming from the other side of the signal, and allow them to pass, even if the signal is red.

The connections shown here is for the first signal. The three small unconnected wires are for the tracks belonging to the (optional) second signal.

Connecting the signals

The signal module can have up to four signals with a total of 12 LEDs connected. Only two signals will have control over track power, but the remaining two signals can be used for distant signals. All signals connected to this module should be LED based with common anode, and with current limiting resistors to allow the signal to operate at about 18V. Viessmann light signals 4000-4018 are good examples of usable signals. Homemade signals will work just as well. Here is the basic connection scheme:

The 12 output terminals, named 0-11, are open collector outputs. The two “+” terminals are 18V DC for the common anodes. Note the two unused terminals. They should not be used, at least not for signals. They are outputs for a feedback module, like the s88 or Uhlenbrock 63350. This, however, is not tested yet.

The first signal should be connected to one of the two “+” connections and to the lowest numbered outputs. Each LED should have its own output. An (optional) second signal should have its LED's connected to the next higher outputs (and to a “+” of course). And so on.

Here is an example of three signals wired up to one module. The first signal is connected to outputs 0, 1 and 2. The next signal is connected to 3 and 4, and the third one is connected to 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9. Note that the signal module can only control the power for two tracks, so signal 3 does not have any train influence. It can still be connected for visual appearance though. A fourth signal could also have been connected to terminals 10 and 11.

The order of the wires within each signal is important. The module expects them to be connected in the following way. Connect the first mentioned wire to the lowest number.

Signal type	Order (from low to high)	Notes
	Red Green	Block signal. Can also be used for other signal types, that has a “stop” and a “go” light.
	Red Yellow Green	Entry signal.
	Left red Right red Yellow Green Whites	Departure signal. Both whites use only a single output.
	Upper yellow Lower yellow Upper green Lower green	Distant signal. In case the signal doesn't need to display “slow” (used as distant for a block signal), the two yellows should be connected together, and the greens likewise, so it only uses two outputs in total.
	Red Green Upper yellow Lower yellow Upper green Lower green	Block signal with distant signal. Connect as they were two separate signals. First the block signal, followed by the distant signal.
	Red Yellow Green Upper yellow Lower yellow Upper green Lower green	Entry signal with distant signal. Connect as they were two separate signals. First the entry signal, followed by the distant signal.
	Left red Right red Yellow Green Whites Upper yellow Lower yellow Upper green Lower green	Departure signal with distant signal. Connect as they were two separate signals. First the departure signal, followed by the distant signal.

Configuring the signal module

Once everything has been connected as described above (and perhaps double-checked?), then it is time to power up the module. If this is the very first time you power up the module, it will default to a configuration of a single block signal (red/green) at address 1.

To change the configuration, press the switch (S1) on the module once. Now it is in configuration mode.

The first thing to configure, is the signal type of the first signal. For a start, the module suggests a simple red/green block signal. It displays this by cycling through all (two) possible signal aspects of this type of signal. If you indeed have a block signal connected as the first signal to the module, you should now see it alternating between red and green. But if you have some other type of signal connected instead, some or all of the signal aspects shown probably won't make sense.
To advance to the next type of signal, press the switch once more. Now the module will try to show an entry signal, cycling through the three possible aspects: Red / Green / Green+Yellow. If this isn't your intended signal either, keep pressing the button until the correct signal shows. If you can't seem to find any signal that match the one you've connected, then double check the wiring order described in the previous section. Please note that distant signals can show some odd aspects while configuring the module. This is normal and will be described in a few moments.

When the module shows the correct signal type, we need to enter the digital address of this signal. Using an Intellibox or a Märklin 6040, activate the button that is to control the signal. Using either the red or the green one makes no difference. In case of signals with three or more aspects, two addresses are needed. Enter only the first one, and the next higher address is automatically assumed. Entering the address concludes the configuration for the signal.

Once a signal has been configured, the signal module moves on to the next signal. Repeat the steps above to configure signals 2, 3 and 4 (if needed). Once all 4 signals are configured, or there are no more outputs available, all signals will flash for a couple of seconds to indicate that the configurations has been saved.
If there is still room for more signals, but you don't have the need for them, then press and hold down the S1 switch. After a few seconds, the signals will flash, and you're done.

The following are the signal aspects the various signal types should cycle through (in the order they will appear by pressing the switch):

Distant signal with two aspects. This one uses two outputs.
While configuring the module, distant signals is more dim than main signals. Otherwise they could not be told apart from main signals. Electrically, this two-aspect distant signal is similar to a block signal, but a distant signal won't control a track section.

The next signal types are the ones with integrated distant signals. Depending on the wiring of the distant signal (two wires for two aspects or four wires for three aspects), the displayed aspects on the distant signal might look quite odd. Don't worry. The distant signal will be properly configured afterwards. Both types will be shown here for reference.

When a signal with integrated distant signal has had its address configured, the “next” signal to configure is the distant signal part. The signal selection is then restricted to the two distant signal types. Two-aspect or three-aspect. Other than that, configure it as any other signal. Select the type with S1 and then enter its digital address.
A question has been asked me a couple of times: Why have these signals with integrated distant signals at all? Why not just configure them as two independent signals in the first place? And the answer is that when selecting a signal with integrated distant signal, the distant will go blank if the main signal is showing “stop”. Configuring them as two separate signals, this wouldn't be possible.